Where to begin? Thankfully, in some regards, this is a subject that doesn’t come up much in polite western conversations.
Heads of schools and colleges and many positions in the Ministries are political appointments and often do not reflect the individual’s experience or abilities to fill the position. The individuals will have qualifications a plenty, as these are highly prized, assiduously collected and valued over experience. This was the case at the large (remember 5,000 students plus!) primary school I visited some few weeks ago. The new “Dean” is in his 30’s, has little classroom teaching time, no prior administrative background and little personality to compensate for this lack of experience. By way of contrast, the primary school teacher who escorted us around, in addition to 30-plus years in the classroom, had the kind of presence and personality to captivate anyone regardless of profession or background.
At this point for those unfamiliar or familiar with the term are probably beginning to wonder what FGM is or has to do with primary education.
Before answering that question, out on something of a tangent, consider that 60% of health-related aid in Africa is channeled into a disease that is responsible for less than 5% of deaths. In this school there were no AIDS/HIV posters, at least visible ones. The posters around this campus are pointed, graphic (in that they required no captions or interpretation) and relevant to a large sector of the female student population – female genital mutilation or female circumcision and child brides. I am lost for words to describe the passion with which our guide talked about combating these practices. Now a grandmother, she recounted in detail her own experiences as a young girl. Needless to say it wasn’t easy to listen to and some of the women in particular visibly blanched.
In addition to ensuring that every girl at the school has been educated about the dangers and long-term effects, she regularly attempts to dissuade parents, most often mothers, from requiring their daughters be circumcised. She, along with other elder women in the community, have formed a vigilante-like band of grandmothers to stop the practice. The kinds of argument they run into are mothers complaining that their daughters are obsessed with sex and as a consequence don’t concentrate on their chores, breaking glasses and the like. It was inspiring to see such progressive and activist passion at work.
Very progressive, yes; yet not ready to accept that some children are born naturally left-handed!
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
The Addis Hilton!
Yes, the Addis Hilton was where we stayed the weekend of the Great Run! One of the single volunteers treated herself to a night there for her birthday a couple of months ago, after regaling everyone with how they should save Hilton points. That reminded me that I ought to have some! As it turned out I had more than enough to spend a weekend in the Hilton. The Sheraton is THE elite hotel in town, financed by an Ethiopian/Arabian Sheik! But the Hilton isn’t at all bad, particularly when one has access to the executive lounge.
The reason for this introduction is not to destroy your rightly held perception of the hard life of we volunteers in Ethiopia. OK so maybe it isn’t that bad. The real reason, however, is to introduce the individual we chatted with whilst enjoying the pleasures of the bar. Harold (opted not to use the name he introduced himself by) is a US government employee here on a multi-year contract to establish a military leadership college. As it turns out, the building for this college is directly across from our corner bar. Every day I have walked past the place oblivious to its function. Sure, I have noticed the military folks entering and exiting the building. And in fact, been very curious of the origin of a particularly small group of soldiers whose flag patch I had been unable to identify. Little wonder, it is the flag of the yet-to-be declared, assuming the referendum goes their way and the north acquiesces, new country of South Sudan.
This U.S. mission is to establish a local military establishment to provide senior officers with the equivalent of a US Army college degree. The Ethiopians support the fourth largest contingent of peacekeepers in the world and yet to date have not had one of their own placed in a position of command. They are often given a position of second in command to an officer from a much smaller country, who has little or no practical experience but who has the academic credentials. Following years of internal strife and involvements in neighboring countries the senior members of the Ethiopia army have no shortage of experience, but do lack academic credentials. Needless to say, they are not happy about this, and view the U.S. training program as a way to rectify the situation.
Their practical experience in some cases predates the current regime with some of the senior officers being former Derg (the regime forcibly ousted in 1991) officers. Ethiopian tribes have a long history of conflict. The “battles” were frequently resolved without loss of life but resulted in revolving alliances. Similarly when rebels (the current government) overthrew the Derg, though in that case involving substantial casualties, military staff willing to pledge allegiance to the new regime were absorbed into the new armed forces, often retaining their position and rank.
From Harold’s perspective, with his access to, and frequent opportunities to observe high government officials, he believes there is little corruption (as we tend to define it), especially in the military and police. Not to say that political cronyism isn’t rampant (already seen that with appointees in the Ministry of Education) although maybe less so in the military. He pointed out that the tallest building in Addis, which we could see from our vantage point, had lain empty for almost two years following a political falling out between the government and the owner – our “Sheraton-Sheik”! But with elections around the corner and his public support for the government assured, his certificate for occupancy has recently been approved.
The reason for this introduction is not to destroy your rightly held perception of the hard life of we volunteers in Ethiopia. OK so maybe it isn’t that bad. The real reason, however, is to introduce the individual we chatted with whilst enjoying the pleasures of the bar. Harold (opted not to use the name he introduced himself by) is a US government employee here on a multi-year contract to establish a military leadership college. As it turns out, the building for this college is directly across from our corner bar. Every day I have walked past the place oblivious to its function. Sure, I have noticed the military folks entering and exiting the building. And in fact, been very curious of the origin of a particularly small group of soldiers whose flag patch I had been unable to identify. Little wonder, it is the flag of the yet-to-be declared, assuming the referendum goes their way and the north acquiesces, new country of South Sudan.
This U.S. mission is to establish a local military establishment to provide senior officers with the equivalent of a US Army college degree. The Ethiopians support the fourth largest contingent of peacekeepers in the world and yet to date have not had one of their own placed in a position of command. They are often given a position of second in command to an officer from a much smaller country, who has little or no practical experience but who has the academic credentials. Following years of internal strife and involvements in neighboring countries the senior members of the Ethiopia army have no shortage of experience, but do lack academic credentials. Needless to say, they are not happy about this, and view the U.S. training program as a way to rectify the situation.
Their practical experience in some cases predates the current regime with some of the senior officers being former Derg (the regime forcibly ousted in 1991) officers. Ethiopian tribes have a long history of conflict. The “battles” were frequently resolved without loss of life but resulted in revolving alliances. Similarly when rebels (the current government) overthrew the Derg, though in that case involving substantial casualties, military staff willing to pledge allegiance to the new regime were absorbed into the new armed forces, often retaining their position and rank.
From Harold’s perspective, with his access to, and frequent opportunities to observe high government officials, he believes there is little corruption (as we tend to define it), especially in the military and police. Not to say that political cronyism isn’t rampant (already seen that with appointees in the Ministry of Education) although maybe less so in the military. He pointed out that the tallest building in Addis, which we could see from our vantage point, had lain empty for almost two years following a political falling out between the government and the owner – our “Sheraton-Sheik”! But with elections around the corner and his public support for the government assured, his certificate for occupancy has recently been approved.
Two World Record holders in as many weeks
A couple of weeks ago sitting outside a hotel in Awassa (south of Addis on the shores of an attractive lake) having lunch with another volunteer and our driver, the conversation turned to the Great Ethiopian Run. Kay, an avid follower of athletics, was waxing lyrical about how she would at long last - albeit at a distance - see the official starter, Haile Gebreselassie. No sooner had she finished than a party of locals walked into the restaurant, followed by a noticeable buzz amongst the local diners. That was Haile. After Kay had picked herself up, our driver, Deraje, asked if we would like to meet him??!! Sure enough after we, and they, had finished eating, Deraje inquired if Haile would have time to meet us. Sufficient to say that Haile’s reputation as a gracious and unassuming individual is well earned! He may not be a household name in the States, but here in this long-distance-running-mad country he is citizen-uno. At 35, he broke the world marathon record again last year, and in his time has broken 26 world records and won numerous Olympic and World Championship titles.
Now, fast forward to the day of the Great Run (more of that in …..) and who should we meet in the elevator at the Hilton but Paula Radcliffe - the women's world marathon record holder! No, she is not Ethiopian or Kenyan, but a Brit! A few people recognized her but probably no more nor less than would probably have done so in England.
The Great Ethiopian Run is a 10K (6 mile) event through downtown Addis. This is a serious event with sizable prize money for the “elite” runners. For the remaining 35,000 people, the race is part jog, part walk, and part contact sport, as the crowding allows. Everyone wears the official green t-shirts, so in both directions there is a sea of green. People were chanting, laughing, doing their thing. In some cases “their thing” was to shout derisory comments and hold minor impromptu demonstrations as they passed certain government institutions. The Federal Police Headquarters came in for particular attention. Almost perversely the route managed to pass their headquarters both coming and going, and the intervening run did nothing to mute the crowd’s desire for catcalls and demonstrations, much to the obvious annoyance of the guards touting their AK47s. Apparently, provided the demonstrators are official participants and stay within the confines of the course, they are immune from prosecution! A victory for 1st Amendment rights in Addis. All in all a fun event, though both Anne and I woke the following morning with stiff legs.
Now, fast forward to the day of the Great Run (more of that in …..) and who should we meet in the elevator at the Hilton but Paula Radcliffe - the women's world marathon record holder! No, she is not Ethiopian or Kenyan, but a Brit! A few people recognized her but probably no more nor less than would probably have done so in England.
The Great Ethiopian Run is a 10K (6 mile) event through downtown Addis. This is a serious event with sizable prize money for the “elite” runners. For the remaining 35,000 people, the race is part jog, part walk, and part contact sport, as the crowding allows. Everyone wears the official green t-shirts, so in both directions there is a sea of green. People were chanting, laughing, doing their thing. In some cases “their thing” was to shout derisory comments and hold minor impromptu demonstrations as they passed certain government institutions. The Federal Police Headquarters came in for particular attention. Almost perversely the route managed to pass their headquarters both coming and going, and the intervening run did nothing to mute the crowd’s desire for catcalls and demonstrations, much to the obvious annoyance of the guards touting their AK47s. Apparently, provided the demonstrators are official participants and stay within the confines of the course, they are immune from prosecution! A victory for 1st Amendment rights in Addis. All in all a fun event, though both Anne and I woke the following morning with stiff legs.
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