Tuesday, August 18, 2009

“Woke last night to the sound of thunder”

August 13, 2009
The electricity supply in Addis is very reliable. In this sector of the city we reliably have electricity on odd numbered days and reliably none on even numbered days. Today is our day. Combined with the sound of thunder and heavy rain outside I have returned to bed huddled under a blanket and enjoying a cup of hot tea. Yesterday was the first day we didn’t see any rain; hopefully we are not destined to make up for it today. Already there are hopeful signs the rain is abating and will be dry soon. Ethiopia’s claim is the country with “13 months of sunshine”.

This is wintertime, so some rain and clouds should be expected, and yes we have seen a reasonable amount of sunshine. One would not suffer vitamin D deficiency in this climate. But 13 months? Yes. Officially Ethiopia still observes the Julian calendar. New Years Day is coming up in a little less than a month – September 11th. Prior to which we will have the 13th month of just five days, then celebrate the start of 2002. As if that is not enough to get ones head around, days here start at daybreak. What’s so unusual about that you might ask, except that we have grown up accepting that days start at midnight. Ask someone for the time here and be prepared to add six.

The storm has already passed, the sun is trying to make an appearance, the many birds are back in full song and my tea is finished. It must be time for a warm shower!

August 14, 2009
Yesterday was a pleasantly warm day with no more rain. That is until very early this morning (or very late last night on Ethiopian time) when the heavens opened. Not sure whether it was the flashes of light or the sound like someone dumping a load of gravel on the roof that woke me up. For 15-20 minutes we were treated to quite a storm. Again early morning the birds are back to singing.

Later the same morning
Little wonder it sounded like gravel being dumped on the roof. The streets are littered with piles of pea-gravel sized hail!

Now it is real or “And now for something completely different”

For the past couple of weeks I have been preparing to head for Ethiopia. Only now, somewhere over Africa between Amman and Addis at goodness knows what time (Seattle or local doesn’t matter) the “what am I doing” here point of reality once again is sinking in. Since returning from Nairobi every minute seems to have been consumed with all manner of business related to the rentals. Goodness knows what would have happened had we remained in Kilifi. The yard at the Queen Anne Hill house would have grown wild for yet another year for starters. It is amazing how much greenery, basically left to it’s own devises, grows in the span of 3-4 years! Five truck loads of greenery “recycled” and two loads of bark spread around, the place looks much smarter. A new coat of paint outside also helps. So, now the chance to think what next?

In the immortal words of Mont Python – “Now for something completely different”: The climate in Addis, being even higher in elevation than Nairobi, will be temperate, far different from the steamy coast of Kenya. Ethiopian culture, history, politics and tribal characteristics etc. will all be a new experience. Arriving in Addis will feel distinctly different from the experience of arriving in Nairobi. Nairobi was more akin to going home. As I was being driven from the Nairobi airport to the hotel the driver was pointing out the various places of interest – few had changed. “This is State House Road, home of the President” – yes but the more interesting landmark for me is the apartment building we just passed where I lived for a year in the mid-70s. Now I have no idea what to expect. Still with VSO, but working out in the Ethiopian VSO office, I will get to see the operation from the other side. To satisfy the requirements of a large Canadian grant supporting activities in 15 countries CUSO-VSO (the Canadian affiliate) is instituting a more standardized methodology for the monitoring and evaluation of the programs it will support. Delloite and Touche are providing the majority of volunteers to assist the country sites. Ethiopia is amongst a few countries they declined to send their employees.

Oopps, we are presumably approaching the monsoon effects the pilot eluded to earlier. More later….

Random Thoughts on Leaving Kenya

The following are a collection of random thoughts I jotted down whilst sitting in Nairobi.

Why are there more expatriates working in Kenya now than in 1975 (at the time of the troubles the UN alone drew up evacuation plans for almost 10,000)?

Why do hundreds (literally) of government officials have to drive high-end turbo Mercedes saloons?

Why do the hundreds (if not thousands) of NGOs drive brand new expensive four-wheel drive vehicles – to drive around the city?

How do thousands of Kenyans acquire enough money to afford cars that cost more than 60% of the populace will earn in a lifetime?

And, why have those with the fancy cars allowed the transportation infrastructure to erode (in some places virtually disappear) such that any journey takes at least twice as long as in the mid-70s?

What happened to mandatory free primary education with almost 100% enrollment, were now only those that can afford the school fees send their children to school?

Why is there consistent pessimism that come 2012 (next elections) there will be a repeat of the troubles following the last election?

Why does the electricity go out so regularly in a city with so much visible wealth parading the city streets?

Why when Swahili is the country’s official language, are parliament proceedings again conducted in English?

Reflecting on these random thoughts the differences to Ethiopia are already striking.